Trastevere & Circo Massimo
Trastevere is a district of Rome, number thirteen to be precise, in fact it is referred to as R. XIII. It comprises a vast area bordering the Testaccio, Ponte, Regola and Ripa districts, the Borgo district, and the Aurelio, Gianicolense and Portuense districts.
This district is characterised by narrow alleys, colourful buildings, restaurants, Roman trattorias, shops, stalls, and artisans' workshops. It is a perfect area in which to live or spend days and evenings relaxing and having fun.
It is a very popular district with tourists, in fact it is one of the most famous in Rome. It takes its name from the place where it is located, namely on the other side of the Tiber, as the city had its origin and main development on the opposite bank of the river.
Trastevere has its roots in a past of working-class tradition and has managed to retain its popular charm despite the considerable tourist development. Strolling through its streets one can breathe in the true Roman soul, so much so that it is said that the Trasteverini are convinced that they descend directly from the ancient Romans.
In the district one can distinguish two parts, separated by Viale Trastevere: to the west is the livelier area around Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, to the east are quieter and more charming alleys that branch off around Piazza Santa Cecilia.
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What to see and do
If you are wondering what to see in Trastevere, the answer is: everything!
It is a neighbourhood that should be experienced rather than visited. You should lose yourself in its cobblestone alleys, discover the treasures hidden around every corner, the little churches that immediately transport you to another era, and experience scenes of Roman daily life. You will feel as if you are in a small village within the city, but far from the chaos found in other areas.
We recommend you take a nice walk along the Lungarno and then cross Ponte Sisto to enter the district proper. From the bridge you can admire a beautiful view of the dome of St Peter's.
Beyond the bridge is Piazza Trilussa, one of the most loved and frequented places in the area, dedicated precisely to the famous Roman poet. Many young people gather here, especially after sunset. The most important place of worship, however, is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, which overlooks the square of the same name. Its façade is covered with mosaics that give it a fascinating sheen, especially at particular times of the day.
Continuing our historical, artistic, and cultural tour, there are other buildings to see: the Basilica di Santa Cecilia, the Chiesetta di San Cosimato, the Basilica di San Crisogno, with its underground passages, and the Church of San Pietro in Montorio, the place where St Peter is said to have been crucified. Inside the latter church is Tempietto di Bramante, an example of Renaissance architecture.
Not far from here is the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, made of marble and commissioned by Pope Paul V. It is also beautiful to see at night when it is all lit up.
Also worth seeing: the Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Villa Farnesina, with the Sala di Galatea, frescoed by Raphael, and the Sala delle Prospettive, painted in an illusionistic manner by Baldassarre Peruzzi.
You cannot miss the Isola Tiberina, which is located right on the Tiber, small and cosy, perfect for a little relaxation while admiring the flow of the river.
A few steps away from Trastevere, across the river, you will also find the famous Bocca della Verità and the Circo Massimo an ancient Roman circus where all the shows were held and whose ruins remain today, which can be accessed by visitors or where events and concerts are organized.
Where to eat and drink
In Trastevere you really are spoilt for choice when it comes to trattorias, restaurants, clubs, and pubs. Indeed, it is one of the best neighbourhoods in which to eat in Rome, both for the quality of the proposals and the atmosphere of the area, as well as for the possibility of pleasant walks before or after dinner.
The restaurants in Trastevere are certainly frequented by many tourists, but also by many city residents who can be sure that you will find really good food. For example, Nannarella an essential restaurant serving Italian cuisine, also with outdoor tables; Impiccetta, generous portions, first and second courses of fish and meat in a place with exposed wooden beams.
Other restaurants to keep in mind: Tonnarello, Trattoria da Enzo, Da Vittorio a Trastevere, Da Carlone and Osteria della Trippa.
Among the best pizzerias in Trastevere we recommend: Pizzeria Ai Marmi, a historic place that was also frequented by Pasolini; Ivo a Trastevere, where you can find the crispy pizza par excellence; L'Elementare, simple pizza that goes straight to the taste buds.
An interesting place is Eggs, the menu focuses on eggs and offers pasta carbonara in many different versions. Also worth considering: Proloco Trastevere, a modern osteria with a kitchen, pizzeria, and cocktail bar, here you can also have the Pranzo del Contadino, a Sunday brunch idea.
If you fancy a change of flavour: Carmen - Bodega Mexicana, offers tacos, fajitas, meat and fish and various specialities. Or Baby Bao, an oriental cuisine restaurant that also puts a lot of emphasis on drinking. Rese Tartare Bar, where meat and fish tartare is the highlight of the menu, but also tacos, bao and poké for a quick lunch break.
Nightclubs in Trastevere include Santo Trastevere, which is also a gintoneria (gintonic), Treefolk's Public House, a pub with a selection of beers and whiskies, La Punta Expedio de Agave, a cocktail bar with a kitchen.
Also popular with Romans and tourists, just like Trastevere, is the Testaccio district on the left bank of the river. Another area that offers traditional cuisine restaurants, places to have a drink with friends and where part of the city's good movida comes to life.
And last comes dessert, but not just any dessert, the tiramisù to be eaten at Tiramisù Trastevere, a pastry shop that is excellent for a snack break.
Where to go shopping
There are many shops and craft boutiques in Trastevere, hence its reputation for unique and original shopping for both clothing and objects.
Most of these boutiques, including vintage ones, are located between Via del Moro, Piazza Trilussa and Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, but there are also many others in the surrounding alleys. There are also grocery shops, delicatessens, convenience stores and supermarkets.
In general, the neighbourhood is rich in shops for basic necessities and services, so clothing, shoes, jewellery, pharmacies, banks, and anything else you might need.
For fresh products, you can go to the Trastevere district market held in Piazza San Cosimato every morning except Sundays. This market is attended by Romans but also by tourists in search of typical products or to experience the real thing. You can also find all the products to cook the excellent Roman dishes, so you will not miss artichokes, puntarelle, chicory and fava beans, as well as all cuts of meat, fish, and Roman cheeses.
Among the curiosities of this market is the presence of a second-hand book stall and a dog and cat food shop.
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