Trionfale & Balduina
Trionfale, denoted by Q. XIV, is the fourteenth district of Rome and lies northwest of the Vatican City. The other neighbouring districts are: Della Vittoria, Rione Prati, Aurelio and Primavalle.
It takes its name from the street of the same name that runs through it and is so called because it was the route by which the victorious Roman generals entered Rome after battles. A curiosity about this very street: it is the only one in the city whose house numbers do not follow the arithmetic progression but indicate the distance between the building in question and the Campidoglio.
Today, the Trionfale extends up Monte Mario and also includes the area known as Balduina. This is a residential area where various redevelopment projects have been launched in recent years, through private and public initiatives.
As far as services are concerned, the entire district is well supplied and even has four hospitals, one of which is the Policlinico Gemelli, one of the most renowned in Rome.
The Trionfale district has two souls: it started out as a working-class area, in fact the houses were inhabited by the workers who worked in the brick factories. Later, with the building boom of the 1950s and 1960s, the whole area began its transformation that led it to become one of Rome's chic areas.
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What to see and do
Trionfale is rather quiet and offers both cultural and historical attractions as well as nature and landscapes.
In fact, Monte Mario stands on a hill overlooking the capital, and thanks to its location, it is an area that allows you to get away from the chaos of the city. On the other hand, from various points in the district you can enjoy a wonderful panoramic view of the city.
In the surroundings there are two important green and naturalistic areas: the Monte Ciocci Urban Park, crossed by a pedestrian and bicycle path, and the Pineto Urban Regional Park. The latter is a large nature reserve, a habitat for various animal species and rich in Mediterranean and sub-Apennine vegetation. Passing the famous Astronomical Observatory and arriving at the Zodiac Belvedere, located on a promontory, you can enjoy one of the most spectacular views of the city.
Among the religious architecture that can be visited in this area are the Basilica of San Giuseppe al Trionfale, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Trionfale, the Church of Santa Paola Romana, the Church of San Pio X, the Church of Gesù Divino Maestro and the Chapel of Santa Maria degli Angeli.
Monte Mario and the neighbouring places belonging to the Trionfale and Balduina areas were, in ancient times, chosen by the nobility as the site of their residences, mainly due to their strategic and picturesque location. This led to the discovery of various traces of the past, various finds dating back to different historical periods. Even today, one can admire noble villas and historical structures.
While maintaining this historical heritage, new buildings are springing up, the signs of renewal can be seen in the housing developments, which are also bringing a revival of commerce and shifting the focus towards the Balduina area as a neighbourhood to live in.
One of the revival projects in Balduina is the cinema. Although there is no dedicated cinema hall, the neighbourhood has organised an open-air Balduina Cinema in the summer at the Vittoria Park and a screen at Monte Ciocci.
Where to eat and drink
In this district there are also many places to eat, drink or enjoy an aperitif.
Among the restaurants at Trionfale we recommend: Il Belli al Trionfale, a restaurant specialising in meat dishes accompanied by a wide selection of still and sparkling wines; Tocco Ferro, a very nice place with excellent first and second courses; if you want to feel at home, Trattoria Antico Falcone, where you can rediscover the authentic flavours of Roman cuisine. At Gli Esploratori, a place with books on the walls where you can discover fresh flavours and ingredients; L'Altra Guancia, with proposals for typical dishes, among the main courses you can find veal cheek cooked in different ways, hence the name of the place.
If you are looking for restaurants in the Balduina area specifically, here is what we suggest: Chiodofisso LaB, Sardinian cuisine, but you will also find Roman dishes and pizza; Altrogiro, what you will ask for after your first glass of wine, all accompanied by a rich gastronomy; Bistrot Balduina, fresh and carefully prepared food, meat, and fish dishes.
There are also international cuisine options: Ristorante Linda, from sushi to spring rolls, La boutique sushi, or Ristorante Nikko; Ni-Hao Chinese restaurant; Hakak Restaurant, for Indian cuisine but also American-style chicken wings.
As in every neighbourhood, even at Trionfale the pizzerias cannot be missed: at Magnifica, in addition to pizzas you will also find fried food and typical Neapolitan appetisers; Il Peperoncino Dispettoso, a wood-fired oven, fresh pasta and homemade desserts; Rimpizzamose Balduina, which offers home delivery; Pinsa and Qpplì, the takeaway Roman pinsa.
The time has come for aperitifs in Balduina: at Foodoo you will find excellent drinks and Italian dishes; Vivi Bistrot Le Serre, one of the neighbourhood's social hotspots housed in a greenhouse, serves aperitifs outdoors and serves organic food and very good cocktails. For wine lovers, the reference point is now L'enoteca Belsito or Vinnico Wine Bar, also craft beers, cocktails, and spirits to accompany delicious dishes.
For a nice walk-in ice cream, here are the reference ice-cream parlours: Soft Gelateria, Pico Gelato, Chocolat, Gelateria Iamotti, Da Giovanni Gelateria Duse.
Where to go shopping
Trionfale and Balduina, also on the trade front, are recovering and growing. One example is the new shops under the arcades of Piazza della Balduina which, after remaining empty for a few years, are coming back to life with activities such as Tim, for telephones, and Kasanova, for household articles.
But alongside the newcomers, some of the neighbourhood's historic shops are still standing, such as Castroni, a café-bar selling basic necessities, La Città del Sole, a toy shop, the Mondadori Point newsagent-bookshop and Passaparola, another bookshop in the square.
In the southern part of the district, thus not far from Vatican City, is the Mercato Trionfale, perhaps the largest in Rome with over 270 stalls. Well-divided into aisles and stalls according to product category, you can find everything you need: fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, cheese, cold cuts, and delicatessen products.
In Via Trionfale there was also the Mercato dei Fiori (Flower Market), which unfortunately is now closed, but it would seem that they are planning another use for the building. Still active, on the other hand, is the Mercatino dell'Usato (second-hand market), also in Via Trionfale, where excellent bargains can be found, and which accepts furniture, books, and objects for evaluation. It is best to look up the dedicated number and contact them by phone to ask in advance if it is possible to bring a certain type of product.
In general, the whole area is well stocked with supermarkets, pharmacies, clothes shops, shoe shops, jewellers, perfumeries and all the other shops and personal services you may need.
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