Monteverde & Portuense
The Monteverde district in Rome is located on a tuff hill on the right side of the Tiber, characterised by several areas of vegetation. It is located behind the Janiculum Hill, referred to as Q. XII., i.e., the twelfth quarter.
In the past, the Orti di Cesare (Caesar's Gardens), a landed estate dating back to Roman times, stood here. Then in the 17th century, Villa Doria Pamphilj was built in the northern area, between Monteverde and the Aurelio district, from the fusion of many vineyards. It was not until the 20th century that the first urbanisation process took place with the construction of the stately villas that today make up Monteverde Vecchio. In the post-war period, however, another process of urbanisation gave birth to Monteverde Nuovo.
Today, the district is now an integral part of Rome, but it remains distanced from the chaos of the city and there is more peace and tranquillity, which is why it is a favourite residential area.
Portuense, on the other hand, is the Q. XI., thus the eleventh district of Rome, located further south than Monteverde and Gianicolense. It was built along the street of the same name that once connected the city centre with the port of Fiumicino. Despite increasing urbanisation, many green areas, villas, and gardens have remained in this district. This is why it is frequented especially on weekends even by those who do not live in the area, for sports, walks, outdoor relaxation, and historical-artistic visits.
We have no availability in this neighborhood
What to see and do
Between Monteverde and Portuense, there is no lack of attractions to visit and cultural incentives.
For instance, Monteverde is famous for its fountains, statues, footpaths, and villas, such as Villa Doria Pamphilj. This is a famous historical residence dating back to the 1600s, the representative seat of the Italian government. It is a residence within a huge public park with watercourses and historical buildings on one side, which stands along part of the Via Aurelia, an ancient consular road.
A remark on the Aurelio district, Q. XIII (thirteenth): here is Piazza Carpegna with the park and villa of the same name, adding to the number of green and historical areas in the area. This place is connected via Via del Casale with the Doria Pamphilj Park and via Via Gregorio VII directly with the Vatican City.
Another incredible place not to be missed is the Belvedere Terrace on the Janiculum, one of Rome's vantage points from which one can enjoy a complete and evocative view of the city. Or the Villa Sciarra Park, surrounded by the Gianicolensi Walls and embellished with statues depicting animals, satyrs, and mythological and fantastic figures.
Literature and film lovers will be interested to know that in the Valle dei Casali Reserve, in the Gianicolense district, there is Villa York, an agricultural estate that was chosen by Luigi Pirandello for Il Fu Mattia Pascal. But that's not all, the area was also chosen by Pier Paolo Pasolini for the film Uccellini Uccellacci. Moreover, it was in Via Giacinto Carini 45 that Pasolini first met Bernardo Bertolucci, Attilio's son, who would become his assistant director in the film Accattone.
In short, a district as beautiful to see as it is to imagine and savour in thought for all that it has represented in the world of Italian culture. A strength that still permeates its streets.
In the Portuense district there is historical evidence and the presence of archaeological sites such as the Catacombs of Generosa, rich in both Christian and pagan evidence, and the Forte Portuense. Unfortunately, it is not possible to access the latter because it is considered dangerous.
Where to eat and drink
In Monteverde you will find a variety of places to stop and quench your hunger: from traditional trattorias, typical pizzerias, bars, and pubs for aperitifs to mouth-watering ice-cream parlours, the choice is truly vast.
Let's start by talking about a neighbourhood institution, La Gatta Mangiona, one of the best pizzerias in Rome, even awarded several prizes. Continuing with the pizzerias: Pizza Art, pizza by the slice, fried food, and also vegan proposals; Pizza e Arrosticini, as the name says it is an Abruzzi restaurant; Pizzeria Eligio Fattori, also here slices of pizza to take away or to eat on the fly inside the premises on a long wooden shelf.
Eden Pizzeria Ristorante, you can also find various choices of first and second courses, an informal restaurant with a covered terrace; Ristorante Pizzeria da Bruno, perfect for excellent lunches and dinners, pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven and Mediterranean specialities; Ristorante Pizzeria Q20, Roman specialities and grilled meat in a place with a family atmosphere.
Let's move on to trattorias and restaurants offering typical Roman dishes: Da Cesare al Casaletto, a restaurant with a quiet veranda for summer dinners; Trattoria del Pesce, a fish restaurant with high quality cooked and raw dishes. At Antico Arco you can find the unmissable carbonara with the addition of black truffle, the traditional menu is enriched with gourmet proposals; Osteria di Monteverde, revisited Roman dishes to experience traditional cuisine with an innovative touch.
Aperitifs in Monteverde are made at Enoteca Monteverde or at Luppolo Station, a pub with a wide range of craft beers, or at Black - Hydro Bar, good cocktails, and DJ sets.
Among the restaurants in Portuense, if you are in the mood for meat, fine cold cuts, tartare and steaks, you must try Santa Brace; or excellent burgers and sandwiches can be found at Officine Resta, a family-run establishment. For an Italian-style dinner Tutto Ghiotto, handcrafted gourmet specialities, meatballs, pasta, cod, and rabbit are really good. At Friccico, tradition and innovation meet, the cuisine is simple but with an extreme focus on raw materials.
For an aperitivo or an evening drink in Portuense, Stadlin, a reference point for happy hour; for beer lovers there is Fermento and Bistrout, from coffee to dinner, also chopping boards and snacks.
Let's close on a sweet note: Gelateria Tony, Pasticceria Ghimenti, Cristalli di Zucchero.
Where to go shopping
Piazza San Giovanni di Dio, which is the heart of Montevecchio Nuovo, now houses the local market. There are numerous kiosks and stalls selling gastronomy, fresh products and seasonal fruit and vegetables, as well as the famous Roman puntarelle and chicory, vegetables that are present in traditional side dishes.
In general, among the shops in Monteverde you will find various options for clothing, footwear, accessories, household items, electronic products and all the services you may need, such as pharmacies.
The neighbourhood is perfectly stocked, but if you really feel like wild shopping and the most popular brands, you can reach the streets of the centre in no time at all by surface transport.
In the Portuense neighbourhood there is the Casetta Mattei shopping centre, spread over three floors and including fashion shops, electrical appliances, mobile phones, jewellers, and everything else you might need. Inside there is also a large Conad supermarket.
Right on Via Portuense there are also a whole series of shops, including second-hand shops, or boutiques with original products.
The whole area is full of supermarkets, including organic products, pet shops, ethnic shops with products from the world and historic specialized shops.
Some questions?
Have more questions?
