Garbatella & Marconi
The Garbatella district, which extends into the Ostiense district (denoted by Q. X., i.e., tenth), is located in the south-west of Rome, began as a suburb and was for a long time undervalued. Nearby are also the Marconi and Valco San Paolo areas. Today it has regained all the attention and interest it did not enjoy for years.
Garbatella can be said to be one of the capital's most famous and trendy areas, but despite everything it has retained its popular authenticity and less frenetic pace. According to one popular story, it takes its name from the owner of an old tavern so popular with travellers that it was called Garbata Ostella, later to become Garbatella.
On Via Ostiense is the University of Roma Tre, the city's third institution in chronological order of foundation, thus following La Sapienza at Tor Vergata. Various departments are located here: Architecture, Economics, Humanistic and Literary Studies, Engineering, Foreign Languages and Literature and others.
From a transport point of view, it is perfectly connected, Garbatella is a stop on the B line of the underground, and a short distance away there is the Roma Ostiense station, the capital's third stop after Termini and Tiburtina. This makes it a transit area and well connected inside and outside the city.
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What to see and do
Strolling through the Garbatella you can enjoy its distinctive architecture that mixes various styles all typical of the years when the first buildings were built. You pass from narrow alleys to green spaces, urban gardens and flower-filled courtyards, open courtyards and balconies with clothes hanging in the air.
You can feel the popular atmosphere of simple living, a neighbourhood on a human scale despite being perfectly integrated in a metropolis like Rome. The modern and creative imprint is noticeable at first glance, as the walls of several buildings are decorated with beautiful murals and street art.
Proceeding towards Garbatella Vecchia, on the other hand, the more modern buildings give way to small villas that are immediately reminiscent of times gone by. The mix of today and yesterday is one of the main characteristics of this area.
Among the things to see: Piazza Benedetto Brin, the most important square in the district at the centre of which is a fountain and all around a park called 'er Pincetto'. From here starts the historic Plinio Marco staircase that connects the district with Via Ostiense.
You can then walk along the Via delle Sette Chiese (Route of the Seven Churches), so called because it links seven stages of the pilgrimage. An obligatory stop is La Chiesoletta, the Church of Saints Isidore and Eurosia, one of the most historical and important. Piazza Giovanni da Triora has also become a tourist destination, where the now famous bar of the Cesaroni, the well-known Italian TV drama, is located. In addition, there is also the Ambra Theatre here, which is one of the cultural hubs of the district.
Another place with a strong historical and romantic memory is the evocative Scalinata degli Innamorati (Lovers' Staircase) and the Fontana della Carlotta (Carlotta Fountain), a meeting point for couples in the post-war period. One cannot forget Piazza Bartolomeo Romano, where the Palladium Theatre is located, with its busy programme of shows, concerts and festivals.
Other important attractions in the area are in the Marconi area and towards Valco San Paolo and near Schuster Park. This is the Basilica Papale San Paolo fuori le Mura, one of the four papal basilicas in the capital, the largest after St Peter's. Surrounding the Basilica are also the Abbey and the Portico of St Paul Outside the Walls.
Where to eat and drink
Rome and culinary tradition can be said to go hand in hand, and one of the neighbourhoods where one can enjoy true Roman cuisine is precisely Garbatella.
Here you will find both taverns that hand down the recipes of yesteryear, but also more modern establishments where tradition is revisited but always with taste.
Among the best restaurants in Garbatella you can find: Il Ristoro degli Angeli, which obviously offers Roman specialities but with a focus on vegetarian cuisine; Mattarello Garbatella, where you can also find thin Roman pizza and supplì; Tanto pè Magnà, where you can enjoy not only first and second courses with generous portions but also the atmosphere of a typical trattoria with checked tablecloths.
We continue with: Ristorante L'Acino Brillo, classic dishes but also fusion proposals in an original restaurant with even outdoor tables; Dar Moschino, speciality here are the first courses, but also with the second courses they don't joke; Ristorante il Girasole, a popular trattoria famous for its pasta, especially the carbonara.
If you are looking for a restaurant specialising in seafood cuisine, try Sgarbatella, here the menu ranges from octopus to fregola sarda, squid ink to gnocchi with prawns.
If you really fancy a good pizza, you can find it at Il Secchio e l'Olivaro, high pizza also gluten-free; Pizzeria Opera for Neapolitan dough; Pizzerie Er Panonto serving Roman pizza and fried appetisers; Al Peperoncino, also a rustic steakhouse; Strapizzami and Pizzeria i Gemelli for slices of pizza by the slice, obviously Roman style.
When it's time for an aperitivo and you are in the Marconi area: Birrificio Marconi, also craft beer; Cosmopolitan bar for excellent cocktails in a friendly atmosphere; T Bar Ostiense, an industrial-style cocktail bar; Magnebevo and sto a Ostiense, good drinks and excellent savoury and sweet food; Vinile, a nightclub with DJ sets that also offers vintage dance tracks.
Among the pubs at Garbatella: HeyHop, dozens of Italian craft beers; 568 Public House, a minimalist venue with wooden furniture and live music at weekends; Otium Club, also a wine bar with an excellent selection of wines and original cocktails.
Rome is also the city of ice cream parlours, here are a few: I Golosoni, Gelato Baciato, I Mannari, Torcé, Gelateria Mister Ice and others that can be found wandering the streets.
Where to go shopping
The shopping street in the area is Viale Guglielmo Marconi, a street full of shops and boutiques for all needs.
It is located close to Trastevere Station, which makes it easily accessible by public transport, but if you have moved nearby or to the Garbatella neighbourhood, you can easily get there on foot.
Among the shops in Via Marconi, you will find a wide variety of brands: Tezenis, Intimissimi, Max Mara, Timberland, Nuna Lie, Elena Mirò, Upim, Original Marines, Foot Locker, in short a little bit for all price ranges and quality of clothing.
There are also jeweller's shops, shops with personal care items, perfumeries, bookshops, such as La Feltrinelli, well stocked also for music, and Libreria Marconi, with stationery and gift shop service.
Also, a landmark in the area is the Galleria Marconi shopping centre, also on the street of the same name, which was created by the redevelopment of the former Campari factory and has become a modern and elegant building on three floors. A range of commercial activities come together here.
If you are looking for fresh products, there is the Mercato Contadino indoor market in Via Francesco Passino, Garbatella district. There are over 30 stalls with seasonal produce from the Lazio region. Opening hours are: 8.30am to 6pm on Saturdays, 8.30am to 2pm on Sundays.
In general, supermarkets such as Coop, Pam, Conad or groceries and specialised shops can be found throughout the area.
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