Porta Genova & Navigli
The Porta Genova district is located in the southwest of Milan, in relation to the Duomo. It is so called because of the presence of another city gate, one of the entrances through the Spanish walls that stand in Piazza Cantore and where you can still see the 19th-century control booths. It is a junction and focal point for the presence of Porta Genova Station, the oldest in the city and still in use. This district is part of the wider Navigli area and is ideally delimited by via Solari, via Bergognone, the Naviglio Grande and the Darsena. These areas are very lively, after all, what makes them famous are the series of places to have anaperitif and restaurants to dine. In addition, the presence of the Navigli makes the district very attractive and magical, a perfect location for strolling during the day, going out with friends in the evening and taking photos to share on social media. In addition, the Porta Genova area boasts museums, and spaces where various kinds of events are organised, both cultural and social, so it is assiduously frequented by a large number of people and for the most diverse reasons.
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What to see and do
Starting with a nice walk through the neighbourhood is always a good idea, so you can breathe in the bohemian atmosphere that spreads through the narrow streets. Walking along the Naviglio Grande you will be spoilt for choice in terms of attractions: both banks on either side of the waterway are a continuous succession of cafés, small antique or vintage shops, a small Libraccio bookshop where you can also find offers for 2€. Just opposite is the Bridge dedicated to Alda Merini, and not far away you can also visit the Spazio Alda Merini free of charge, which offers furniture and objects from the house where she lived. The Cortile degli Artisti (Artists' Courtyard), a hidden glimpse into the inner courtyard of an old railing house at no. 4 Alzaia Naviglio Grande, where there is also a small art shop that can be freely accessed, is also worth a visit. One of the most characteristic corners of the district is the Vicolo dei Lavandai (Washermen's Alley), so called because it was already used in the 19th century for washing clothes.
Going all the way along the Naviglio Grande you arrive at the Darsena, which dates back to the 17th century but was regenerated in 2015 for the Expo. Since then it has once again become a meeting point of the city, as well as one of the most photographed sights in the city. The other watercourse is the Naviglio Pavese, so called because following it all the way to Pavia, in fact there is also a cycle path to ride along for a nice outing. Walking up from Piazza XXIV Maggio, you walk along Corso di Porta Ticinese that leads to the Colonne di San Lorenzo and then, through Via Torino, to the Duomo. It is really a pleasant walk to take, while looking at the shops or stopping for a drink or something to eat. In the Porta Genova district, passing the station towards via Tortona, you go towards the museum area. In fact, around here is Mudec - Museo delle Culture di Milano (Museum of Cultures), which for a long time hosted an exhibition of Marc Chagall. On the other hand, in via San Vittore, near the stops of the green metro line M2 Sant'Agostino and Sant'Ambrogio, is the Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology.
Where to eat and drink
As you may have guessed, Porta Genova and the Navigli are full of places to eat and drink. There really is something for everyone! Especially along the Naviglio Grande you will find one after the other a variety of places where you can have the famous happy hour with the buffet formula where you pay for the drink and eat whatever is available. But even for dinner there are plenty of options. For example, Osteria Gnocco Fritto, which is served with delicious cold meats, cheeses and homemade jams. El Brellin, a traditional Milanese restaurant, a romantic location where the decor and lighting recreate the atmosphere of yesteryear. If you are looking for a pizzeria in the Navigli area, just a few steps away you will find Pizzium, special pizzas with excellent quality toppings. Or Berberè, the right place to share different pizzas with friends.
Towards the Naviglio Pavese, on the other hand, you will find I Capatosta, again for pizza, or Osteria Conchetta, an easy-going place to eat the cotoletta with potatoes and other traditional Milanese delicacies. Instead, Ai Balestrari is a Roman trattoria with first and second courses and the Roman pinsa. If you love meat, even special meat, La Filetteria Italiana Navigli, there are others in other parts of Milan, really has a lot of different proposals and recommends the right meats and wines to enjoy them with. Among the pubs on the Navigli we recommend Doppio Malto, where you can drink beers, cocktails, eat tasty dishes and, on some evenings, also enjoy stand-up comedy shows. Or the Birreria Italiana towards Sant'Agostino. In the square in front of Porta Genova Station is La Scaletta, a refined restaurant with a terrace surrounded by greenery. For a change of menu and location, Meatball Family with meatball and hamburger dishes in a New York-style industrial design restaurant. If you fancy Japanese, Tenoha Milano is very much in vogue. It offers modern Japanese street food with seasonal ingredients in a venue with a garden where events and temporary exhibitions on Japan are organised. But there are also various all-you-can-eat options nearby.
Where to go shopping
Milan is a city to discover, offering surprises at every corner you might not expect, such as the boutiques and original shops in the Porta Genova district and on the Navigli. For example, at Salvatore + Marie in Via Vigevano, the proposals are a mix of fashion, design and a taste for the eclectic. Jewellery, paper bags, accessories, mirrors, but also coats and clothes with unusual lines are on sale here. For vintage lovers, this area is a dream. There are a number of shops with retro, reclaimed or revitalised clothes in perfect contemporary style. Such as Lo Specchio di Alice, in Corso di Porta Ticinese; a more recent shop is Sous Vintage Shop in Alzaia Naviglio Pavese; Pourquoi Moi Vintage, more hidden and to be discovered in Via Fusetti, but with proposals for beautiful French-style clothes.
But the real gem is the Navigli vintage and antiques market, organised on the last Sunday of every month. It hosts more than 300 exhibitors, and you can really find everything: clothing, shoes, handmade accessories, antique books, furniture, vinyls, glasses, old prints and anything else you can think of. Between Via Vigevano and Corso Genova there are three unique little shops that are perfect if you are looking for out-of-the-ordinary clothes. Let's start with Sarah Maj's boutique, opened in 2020. With her creative designer mind, she offers collections that are a mix of cultures between Italy and Morocco. Instead, Eleven Milano is a multi-brand shop where all women, both very young and more mature, find clothes and accessories with which they can identify. Then we have Seghezzi, the shop is run by a mother and daughter, here the watchwords are bright colours, joy and music which are represented in their original clothes. In any case, walking towards the Colonne di San Lorenzo and arriving in Via Torino you will find all the brands of the most popular chains: Zara, H&M, Parfois, Treesse, Adidas, Mango, Alcott, Dixie.
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