Barrio Chueca
Barrio Chueca is a central district of Madrid located in the Justicia area and named after the square of the same name dedicated to the composer Federico Chueca. He was a composer of zarzuela, a Spanish opera-drama genre, who died at the beginning of the 20th century. To the south it is bordered by Gran Via and two of its main axes are Calle de Hortaleza and Calle de Fuencarral.
The area, once degraded, has experienced a period of profound cultural and social renaissance. Today it is lively and famous for its welcoming spirit; in fact, it is the city's gay-friendly district. As early as the 1980s, establishments dedicated to the LGBT+ community were opened in this area and, little by little, it became an international landmark. It is even said that the so-called movida madrileña was born here, from the desire for freedom and personal and artistic expression of the young people who poured through the streets of Chueca. Every year it is the centre of the Gay Pride festival celebrated between June and July.
It is a trendy neighbourhood, offering varied alternatives in terms of both shopping and art. Perfect to spend a pleasant day or to meet up in the evening with friends.
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What to see and do
Chueca is a very popular district both for its artistic, historical and cultural attractions and for the rich presence of clubs, some of which are open until late at night.
A perfect area in which to stroll, also due to the presence of pedestrian areas, but also to discover its beauties. For example, the buildings that are particularly characteristic from an architectural point of view. Palazzo Longoria, a perfect example of Modernism, located on Calle de Fernando VI, which today houses the General Society of Authors and Publishers (SGAE). Unfortunately, there are normally no visits inside, but you can admire the imposing façade with its decorations.
La Casa de los Lagartos (House of Lizards), on Calle de Hortaleza, a residential building in modernist architecture with the peculiarity of having sculptures representing large lizards, or perhaps salamanders. The Casa de la Siete Chimeneas (House of the Seven Chimneys), now home to the Ministry of Culture. The latter in particular is famous for the legend of the ghost of a woman who, on summer evenings, can be seen wandering around the chimneys on the roof.
Some of the main meeting places are the squares: Plaza Chueca, where the metro stop is also located and is also the centre of the district, here there are terraces and bars typical of the neighbourhood. Plaza Pedro Zerolo, known for its bars and clubs and the perfect Madrileña atmosphere. Plaza Santa Barbara, a kind of wooded paradise, and Plaza del Rey, a quiet area with a fountain in the centre.
In the former palace of the Marquis of Matallana, you will find the Museum of Romanticism where paintings, decorative arts and furniture dating back to the 19th century are kept. Halfway between the districts of Chueca and Malasaña is the History Museum, which hosts both permanent and temporary exhibitions. Here you will find works that give a global vision of Madrid, both from an artistic point of view, but also with references to industry, customs and everyday life.
The artistic offer also includes the Marquina Theatre, which can accommodate 500 people and has a varied programme of musicals, comedy and illusionism shows.
Where to eat and drink
If you want to stop for a meal in Chueca, you will find places to eat on every corner, in every street and square. In short, you will be spoilt for choice and have options to suit all budgets.
Here we recommend some of the restaurants where you can start your gastronomic discovery of the neighbourhood. Taberna La Buha Chueca and Taberna el Buo, offer typical Spanish cuisine; La Tita Rivera, a trendy bar with burgers and tacos, cider and craft beers that can also be enjoyed at outdoor tables.
Davanti Ristorante e Gioia, Italian cuisine restaurants where you can find starters, main courses and various desserts. La Hammuseria, a vegetarian restaurant with plenty of options for non-meat eaters.
If you're looking for typical tapas bars in Chueca, here are some places to try: Chuecking Tapas Bar, located right in Plaza de Chueca or El Tigre, one of the most famous places, it is always full and often waiters are forced to raise their trays above their heads to get through the customers. Or Baco y Beto, El Respiro, Taberna de Ángel Sierra, Alina Bravas y Tapas Chueca - gluten free, to the delight of coeliacs.
For an aperitif or a drink with friends there are plenty of places offering everything from beer to wine to cocktails. For example, Cervecería Santa Bárbara, the historic brewery in Plaza Santa Barbara, La Bohemia, Twist & Shout Bar, Bee Beer Chueca, all kinds of craft beers and places where events are also organised.
The cafés in Chueca are also worth a stop, some specialising in breakfast and in coffee preparation. Such as La Carmencita, toasted bread, croissants or English breakfast; La Mallorquina, a historical pastry shop and café with various cakes and pastries or El Horno de Almudena; La Desayunería, an American restaurant when you're in the mood for eggs and crispy bacon; Brunch Club, several options for British-style brunch.
But Chueca is also the realm of nightlife, from cocktails at D'Mystic to nights at LL Bar, a gay-friendly bar with drag queen shows. Or Why Not (which opens in the evenings from 10pm to 3:30am)
Where to go shopping
Another distinctive feature of the district are its markets. An absolute must-see is the Mercado de San Antón, which is spread over three floors: on the first is the actual market with fresh produce stalls and one of Madrid's main food and wine landmarks. On the second floor are national gastronomic dishes, and on the third is the terrace with La Cocina de San Antón restaurant.
Two other options are the Barcelò Market, in the street of the same name, and the San Ildefonso Market in calle Fuencarral. The latter in particular has become the city's Street Food Market.
Chueca is also an excellent area for more traditional shopping. Besides Calle de Fuencarral, which resembles an open-air shopping mall, there are clothes shops, and also footwear and gift shops with original items. Prices are also competitive, and you can also find great bargains in the little vintage shops. You can also find shops of the most well-known and affordable brands, such as Primark or Decathlon for sportswear.
In general, the neighbourhood is stocked with supermarkets, including international chains, grocery shops, shops selling local products and all the service shops useful to the inhabitants, such as pharmacies.
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